Peels: where and how do they act?

Spring, there is no better time to rejuvenate the skin with an ancient but still very topical method: peels. This is a well-known methodology, which if well conducted can have much better results than much more modern methods such as lasers, but with much reduced risks.
We discuss it briefly in this short little article!

DEFINITION:
It is a controlled irritation of the epidermis or dermis done by chemical means, usually strong acids, or physical means such as cold or a laser or radiofrequency source.
They can be superficial, to “peel” only the epidermis, medium, to reach a little deeper and deep to be very incisive in rejuvenation, but with possible major side effects and a very long healing time!
If you remember even Cleopatra in Egypt many centuries ago used peels to be more beautiful!

WHERE AND HOW DO PEELS ACT?
The skin is an extremely complex organ, perhaps the most complex in the entire body, and it has a variety of functions, among which the main one is as a barrier with the elements outside the human body.
It is definitely the most represented organ in the brain and is also one of the most important sexual organs: just think of the redness from embarrassment or desire and the smell it gives off that largely conditions our emotions.
The complete turnover cycle of the surface layer lasts about 25-30 days. The older you get, the more
these cells accumulate and give thickening, keratosis or staining and so on.
Peels have several purposes: first of all they accelerate this turnover, this cell turnover, and thus rejuvenate the skin. In addition, they are particularly active on skin blemishes.
Finally, they also have an inflammatory action that stimulates, according to mechanisms not yet perfectly understood, the production of collagen: skin treated with peels after a certain time after application is found to be plumper and more toned. They are therefore basic in any skin revitalization treatment.
Of course, these mechanisms of action are not always all present at the same time in the various types of peels: some have greater lightening action, others greater action on collagen production, and so on. Your experienced physician will know how to choose the most suitable for you and your particular blemish.

SUPERFICIAL PEELS
Jessner’s solution, superficial peeling that is very effective but without major side effects.
It is spread over the face in successive layers from 1 to a few layers. In this way its penetration can be managed, going from superficial peeling to deeper peeling, although it is very difficult for it to reach beyond the basal lamina of the epidermis.
This is a peel that I personally love very much: it is very effective in skin rejuvenation, giving a glow to the skin that other peels can hardly give.
It is very effective on blemishes, even those that are quite deep, allowing repeated peels to achieve results superimposed on much more invasive peels, but with an enormously lower complication rate.
It can also be used for the neck and décolleté without fear of overreaction.
It can also be used successfully on hands by increasing the steps a little.
In short, it is a very malleable peel with no gross side effects and no major contraindications.
Caution should be exercised in patients allergic to ac. Acetylsalicylic, although no major reactions are reported. It can be performed once a month for cycles of 3-4 sessions each year.
It can eventually be combined with more invasive peels, such as trichloroacetic acid in particular, as a preparatory peel.
It usually causes scaling that starts from day 2-3 and lasts for about 10 days.

Example of superficial peeling with Jessner’s solution

Trichloroacetic acid:
It is spread evenly over the face and can go so far as to cause that whitening of the skin called FROST, which as it falls off will give the improvement of the spot or surface wrinkles.
The sun will be banned for a few weeks!
This is a very suitable peel for chrono and photo aging, to improve small wrinkles (e.g., for lip bar code wrinkles) and for skin spots.
There are many variations of this peel such as TCA gel mask, easy peel and blue peel, but I personally prefer to use pure crystals.

Ac. Pyruvic:
It has an indication in acne and seborrheic dermatitis as it has great sebostatic and antimicrobial properties.
On the dermis it has great collagen stimulation properties, superimposed on that induced by trichloroacetic acid, but with much less invasiveness.
It possesses a minor keratinolytic action. For this reason, the desquamation following this peeling is markedly less, while the sebum-regulating action so important in conditions such as acne is much more pronounced.
It also has a mild depigmenting action.
The main indication is acne, even in active phase, rosacea, seborrheic dermatitis.
It can also be used for melasma, chloasma and keratosis, but in this case it has less benefit.
Pyruvic acid peeling is also classified among the socializing peels, because an immediate return to work activity is possible.
Useful in the post peeling period regular moisturizing, a total sunscreen.
It can be repeated every 25, 30 days.


Peels remain a method of increasing popularity for skin rejuvenation but also for the treatment of many skin conditions.
In addition to those I have described, there are numerous others, either very effective or not.
The advice always remains to rely on a good doctor who will be able to recommend the best peel in relation to the individual, his skin, and his particular situation, and also to his own experience, which is very important for the overall safety of treatment.


Author: Alessio Redaelli

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